![]() This forces you to place it in 1/2L inward, leaving no space for this part to stabilize the axle creating even more play in the 3 inner gears when under high loads the axle starts to flex. There's also something with the grey gear having its geared edge 1/2L back in comparison to its new blue brother. If you drive it from the side there's more play on the 3 inner gears then there is between the outer gears and the turntable so the turntable starts to drive the 16t gear opposing the "drive side 16t gear". You can't drive the grey gear when used like that because the teeth are inaccessible, forcing you to drive it from a side axle. I came up with the exact same idea first, but IRL this does not really work. ![]() There's a way to do this with a 16T clutch gear but it requires more gears and the slack makes it FAR less efficient and it's far less compact.įor those without the new 20T clutch gear, I guess the LBG 20T bevel with pinhole would also do the trick here? I tend to build big and heavy, so for me this is sort of a breakthrough and I thought some of you might be able to use it. I came up this technique using the new 20t clutch gear where you can have both in a compact solution with almost no gear slack. Great solution, but it usually means sacrificing the ability to have a function axle through the turntable because there's gears in the way. If you put gears on both sides of a turntable it can take far more load before skipping because you divide the pressure over 2 gears and it helps to keep the turntable aligned. This was also the case when lifting stuff up with the arms of this sub. Sometimes when you use a turntabel sideways, gears begin to skip under high loads. Īs always I made several accessories for it like this saw. ![]() ![]() 16(+2) LEGO power functions motor, 3 lights and 6 SBrick's form the core of this submarine MOC to make it full remote controlled.Ĭramping all these motors to fit together and getting them mechanically linked to their function has made me swear more than once. ![]()
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